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Category Archives: Christine Haynes

Sassy Librarian Blouse #3 Completed

Sassy Librarian Blouse #3 is finished! The chiffon was much harder to work with than the quilting cotton, and honestly, I think I prefer the look of the cotton versions with this pattern. At this point, I have made all possible versions of the Sassy Librarian Blouse by Christine Haynes. With this one, I did the pintucks and sleeveless features of version 2, but included a collar from view 1. I rounded the ends of the collar to make it Peter Pan like, but I neglected to add seam allowance to the center back. Since I had an empty gap between the collar back, I added a little box pleat for interest.

Back in progress

As this was my first time making the sleeveless version, I was rather intrigued by the method of binding the armholes BEFORE closing the side seam. As directed, I sewed the binding to the right side from side seam to side seam. Then you sew up the side seam, including the binding, and have something like this.

Armhole binding

I had actually skipped my steps around before this part, to complete the center front buttons before the armholes. Then, when I reached this point, I was able to test fit the blouse and had to take the bust in by 1/4″ and let the waist out by 1/4″. If I hadn’t done the buttons first, I would have had to take the armhole apart to make the adjustments, later.

Once everything fit well, the rest of the binding was pretty typical, fold your seam allowance, line it up with your seam line and stitch in the ditch. I topstitched two lines of decorative stitching along the armband, to mimic the center front.

Decorative stitching on binding

Speaking of center front, it’s time to confess: the cute double rows of stitching on the pintuck were an accident. I made the initial tucks too narrow which made the blouse front too wide. I made a decision to stitch a second line of black stitches, rather than unpick the first line, and fortunately, it looks cute instead of like a mistake.

Diamond buttons

I used the same sheer silky material from the collar, backed with fusible interfacing, and made covered buttons, centering the diamond as best I could. The off center button was used at the bottom where it will be hidden by a waistband.

Once I finished sewing, it went into the washer and dryer to remove the washable marker lines, then I quickly wrapped a turban around my hair for the sake of pictures and here we have it! The finished Sassy Librarian Blouse #3!

Diamond chiffon blouse

What do you think? Were the diamond buttons a good choice or are they tacky?

Sassy Librarian Blouse #3 Sneak Peek

As I mentioned a few days ago, I started a third Sassy Librarian Blouse. My previous two were made from quilting cotton which gave the pattern a nice crisp look. This time I wanted to see how the pattern draped in chiffon.

Since the fabric is all sorts of slinky, I hung the fabric over my shower curtain rod and starched it first. I recently discovered these awesome pump action spray bottles (at the hairdresser) that provides a continuous spray, similar to an aerosol.

Continuous mist spray bottle

I added liquid starch and just a bit of water (maybe 4:1 or 5:1 starch to water), sprayed my fabric thoroughly, then left it to dry. The fabric still slipped a ton, but it’s much stiffer than it started, making it easier to work with.

As many of you know, it’s best to customize your marking tools to the fabric. Due to the slipperyness of this fabric, I used washable Crayola markers to mark it. The markers barely need to touch the fabric to leave a mark, so there’s less shifting the fabric out of place each time you mark, and I haven’t had problems washing the marker out (along with the starch) after I finish the project.

At this point, I need to bind the armhole, close up the sides, hem, and then add buttons and holes. Sounds so easy, but it’s probably a few more hours of work to go before it’s ready for wash and wear. In the meantime, here’s a sneak peek of the blouse.

Front in progress

Back in progress

Wearing History Chic Ahoy 1930s Slacks

Chic Ahoy Slacks, Halter, & Bolero

A month or so ago, I made the Wearing History Chic Ahoy 1930s slacks from some brown linen I had handy. It’s paired with a Sassy Librarian Blouse made to match.¬†This past weekend, a friend took a few pictures for me to share with you!

Sassy Librarian Top & Chic Ahoy Slacks

The buttons are fabric covered buttons, using the same brown silk to match.

Close up of button front

Underneath the button closure is a hook and eye at the waist.

Hidden hook & eye closure

This pattern went together quite easily and I added a few extra buttons. The pattern is designed to be belted through vertical buttonholes, but I wanted all the buttons. I did find that the buttons aren’t as snug fitting as a belt would be, so the top edge of the hidden closure tends to peek out. I will have to try the belt next time and see how it wears. I’m considering modifying this pair by adding two more buttons across the top to hold it in place there.

Christine Haynes’ Sassy Librarian Blouse

Tonight, I’m starting my third Sassy Librarian blouse by Christine Haynes. This pattern is for a Craftsy class, which is great because it gave me step by step instructions for my new journey into “modern” (ie, later than 19th century) sewing. Also, as I’m a self-taught seamstress, I like classes like this because I pick up little tricks and tips from experienced and/or trained sewers. I buy Craftsy classes when they’re on sale for $20. I like that I learn something new from each one and can refer back when I don’t remember something. Well worth my money.

Sassy Librarian Blouse

I’ve made this blouse twice already and thought I should share those versions before I start number three. You may have noticed these blouses already in my Fabric Covered Buttons post.

Buttons on finished projects

First was this awesome floral fabric I hunted through multiple fabric stores to find and used initially for a playsuit. This was leftover fabric, and I still had more leftover after the blouse. I made size 8, for my 36″ bust, but it was too large. I seamed both side seams in about an inch and it was perfect after that. I used large 7/8″ covered buttons because big buttons just feel so retro.

Floral collared blouse

For the second blouse, I tried the other view with the cute bow at the neck, using the same yellow fabric for the body. This time I jumped to size 4, which fits, but is snug in the bust and created a bubble above my chest from not being able to settle back in place after I move. I used 1/2″ covered buttons on this version, but it still feels appropriately vintage, despite my preference for big buttons!

Yellow & brown blouse

Blouse number three is going to be size 6, since I’ve already tried sizes 4 and 8. Hopefully size 6 will be perfect without a full bust adjustment (FBA), but if not, I’ll be doing size 4 with a FBA on blouse number 4.

Has anyone else tried or have plans to try the Sassy Librarian Blouse, or any other Craftsy classes?

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